Your Complete Guide to the Isle of Skye
I’ve traveled across the country of Switzerland numerous times, circled around Ireland, and drove the South Island of New Zealand – but the Scottish Highlands may be the most scenic place I have ever seen in my life.
Random Waterfall on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Sunny body of water on the other side of Kilt Rock on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Rocky Views on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Green mountains on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Sparkling body of water on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Rolling fog leaving the Isle of Skye; September 2024
The Isle of Skye lives up to every one of its last expectations, but there are a few things to know before you go.
Read more to learn everything you’ll need to know before going to the Isle of Skye.
Sunny day with a sparkling body of water on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Driving in the Isle of Skye and the Scottish Highlands is Challenging
Even though we were familiar with driving on the left side of the road in New Zealand and Australia, we soon learned that driving in Scotland was a whole other universe.
The roads are extremely narrow, windy, and at times – one way streets.
Rugged mountains while driving on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
This means you’ll often come across a turnout, or as the Scots say, “layby” – where you’ll have to turn into the left to let other people pass you. NEVER GO TO THE RIGHT. You have to turn to the left if you are the second person, as the right of way goes to the person who got there first.
Scenic Views on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
In addition to this, a lot of the roads to and in the Isle of Skye itself are poorly paved – with deep ditches you’ll have to pay attention to. This is precisely why it’s important to drive slow and not get cocky even if you start to get the hang of driving on the left.
The last thing you want on your trip is a rental car with a flat tire. Therefore, if you usually drive on the right side of the road – try to aim for the middle so you don’t hug the left side too hard, and accidently find yourself with a flat tire from a ditch on A82, A87, or A855 in the Isle of Skye.
Here are some other key things to remember when driving in Scotland:
· Speed Limits – Trucks (lorries) will have a lower speed limit than cars. They have hidden cameras even when you’re seemingly in the middle of nowhere, so be careful. You can try to pass them on the right if you’d like, but beware the dual carriage ways (what we call in the U.S. divided highways, or roads with a median) are short and leave you little time to pass them safely. Generally, the speed limit on the A9 headed south towards Glasgow and Edinburgh is 60mph for single carriage way and 70mph for dual carriage way – but can be as slow as 50mph for trucks.
· Passing Lane – When in doubt, let locals behind you pass you. The passing lane, or as the Scots call it, the “overtaking lane” is on the right, and the “steady” lane is on the left.
· Blind Summits – Many roads are bends with what they call, “blind summits” – you’ll be notified to reduce your speed with ample warning.
· No Stops – At times when driving, you’ll have miles without a turnout or the ability to stop. This will be marked with a blue circle and red X mark through the middle.
· Gasoline or Petrol – Everything is opposite here! Scots use green for gasoline (or petrol) and black for diesel. Also, you pay after you fill up the car instead of before in the United States.
Luckily, there are no massive cliffs that could scare beginner drivers to the left side of the road – but if you’re able to, get the smallest car you’re comfortable driving when visiting the rental car center.
Lakes and rolling hills on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Route to the Isle of Skye
When driving to the Isle of Skye from Edinburgh or Glasgow, you should really try to drive through Glencoe and make a stop at Eilean Donan Castle. The main road you’ll take will be A82 before switching to A87.
Views while driving through Glencoe; September 2024
Glencoe is more of a small village with not much to see or do (the main point is to pass through Glencoe for the views), but Eilean Donan is an actual stop worthwhile. You’ll find coffee, food, and restrooms at both.
View of Eilean Donan Castle; September 2024
It’s important to remember that driving through Glencoe and stopping at Eilean Donan adds time to your journey, meaning that you should only go this route either on the way to or back from the Isle of Skye.
Isle of Skye in a Day Per Local Recommendation: The Trotternish Peninsula
When we got to the Isle of Skye, our lovely Airbnb Host advised to not go to the top of the Isle of Skye. He instead advised us to cut across once we reached the town of Staffin to Uig, and then to loop back around to the main town of Portree.
The main road you’ll use for the Trotternish Peninsula (also known as the Trotternish Loop) will be A855.
Random beauty on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Here are the main things to see and tips while driving around the Isle of Skye:
· Start Your Tour of the Isle of Skye EARLY – We left or Airbnb at 8:49AM, and when we got to massive parking lots to stop and take pictures, they were already full. Remember, all major tourist attraction parking lots in Eilean Donan, Kilt Rock, and Portree will charge you – even for short term parking. Even more so, starting your drive around the Isle of Skye early means there will be less traffic and less locals trying to speed past you.
· Turnouts Are Your Friend – If you need to pee, reroute yourself, or see a great view – don’t hesitate to use the turnout for a quick photo stop or well-needed break.
· Kilt Rock – This was our favorite stop on our drive, it is truly unreal beauty. While you need to pay for the parking, there are picnic benches to stop and have a meal while you take in the scenery.
· Lealt Gorge & Waterfalls – The imagery in the Scottish Higlands can change on a dime, from meadows, to brown, to water – so be sure to keep your eyes peeled for waterfalls and other special little spots that may not be on the map.
· The Hungry Gull in Staffin – I can’t recommend this place more. In the middle of nowhere, amazing vegan options, good coffee, and a bathroom and grocery store nearby. The perfect halfway stop during your tour of the Isle of Skye!
Kilt Rock on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Leave Time to Eat & Explore in Portree
Parking in Portree can be challenging. We found that the two main parking lots near the town square (Sommerland Square) and around the corner (The Green Car Park) were full – so we opted for the parking lot below the city center near the water on Portree IV51 9EW to maximize our time. It wasn’t too far away, just required some stairs to get to and back.
Here’s what you should eat, see, and do when in Portree:
· Eating in Portree – We ended up eating at the Isle Inn – and while they were busy and don’t take reservations, it was well worth it. My dad said it was the best fish and chips he’s ever had in his life, and my cauliflower steak was delicious – both of us being tough critics, we can confirm the food here was superb.
· Gift Shops & Unique Stores – There are lots of places to buy t-shirts, jewelry, and other unique souvenirs in Portree alongside local galleries.
Streetview of Portree, the main city on the Isle of Skye; September 2024
· Walk Down to the Harbor – You can get Fish and Chips cheaper if you walk down the stairs to the water, where there are also picturesque bright and colorfully painted hotels and shops. Just remember, seagulls are everywhere – so hold your food close if you choose to eat near the water! You don’t want a repeat of what happened to us in Saint Malo and Mont-Saint Michel…
Harbor in Portree, UK Scottish Highlands; September 2024
Route back to Edinburgh from the Isle of Skye
To quote our Airbnb host, “Don’t go back the way you came!”
When you’re driving back to Edinburgh, you can take A87 all the way to Inverness, Scotland’s fastest growing city. You’ll know you’re going the right way if you pass Eilean Donan again, this time – the castle will be on your right.
This way, you can avoid the more challenging, slower one-way roads heading back.
Once you get to Inverness, you can switch to the road A9 – which will take you all the way back to Edinburgh.
Red mountain reflecting on the water during sunrise in the Isle of Skye; September 2024
Locals will tell you that the drive can be done in 5 hours flat, but it’s simply not realistic. Maybe if you never stop from the Isle of Skye until Edinburgh, but even then – you can’t prepare for the city traffic or a potential accident on the road.
Even with minimal stops, it took us around 7 hours – so be sure to plan ahead.
Overall, you can’t prepare for the Scottish Highlands – it may be the most scenic place I’ve ever been to in my life… and I’ve traveled a lot, so that’s saying something!
Want to see our trip to the Isle of Skye in action?
Check out my vlog for the Isle of Skye below!